When I choose a wave to go for, I say, ‘That’s my baby, don’t say maybe.’ I say this to the coming wave. I face the shore and lean forward lyi...g down on the board. I start to stroke slowly and when I feel the board rise with the swell, I thrust the water back powerfully one-two-three, she has me. ‘Pop.’ I do a push-up and throw my legs underneath. ‘Down-down-down.’ Down the wave I charge, accelerating quickly while I peruse the situation – turn toward the break – ‘Cut.’ I lean heavily into a. The evening was so pleasant. They watched some TV and even got a card game going. Barney had headed home before dinner and Boyd had just headed out to his car. Since Papa had come home from the hospital, he had been sleeping in the den downstairs. It was just off the short hall by the stairs and that meant that Sloan could use her room, she was still sleeping in Walt’s, but Annie didn’t want to go back upstairs. It may seem that she was over her earlier scare but by no means was. She had. More

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